Menemukan Kembali Saidjah dan Adinda

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Pengalaman seorang Belanda ke Lebak untuk membuktikan kebenaran kisah di dalam roman Max Havelaar. Sempat dipalak aparat 30 ribu perak.

Oleh Arjan Onderdenwijngaard




 

PADA 1987, tepat pada seratus tahun kematiannya, sebagai wartawan lepas dari sebuah stasiun radio di Belanda, saya dan seorang kawan menelusuri perjalanan Eduard Douwes Dekker alias Multatuli yang pernah bertugas sebagai asisten residen Lebak mulai Januari sampai April 1856. Berbekal roman Max Havelaar yang saya baca sejak masa sekolah di Belanda, saya melihat kembali apa yang pernah Multatuli lihat pada seratus tahun sebelumnya.

Medio 1987 kami tiba di Rangkasbitung setelah melalui perjalanan yang cukup panjang dari Jakarta melalui Serang dan Pandeglang. Sama seperti Max Havelaar yang datang ke Serang terlebih dahulu untuk melaporkan diri kepada Residen Banten Brest van Kempen, kami berangkat dari Jakarta langsung menuju Serang menggunakan mobil melalui rute sama dengan yang Multatuli tempuh menggunakan kereta kudanya pada awal 1856. Saat itu belum ada jalan tol yang menghubungkan Jakarta ke Serang.

Tiba di Serang siang, kami mengunjungi kembali alun-alun Serang di mana rumah dinas residen Banten berada tak jauh dari sana. Rumah tersebut sempat beralih fungsi menjadi kantor gubernur Banten dan kini tak lagi digunakan. Dalam kisahnya, Max Havelaar sempat menginap satu malam di rumah Residen Banten Brest van Kempen sebelum melanjutkan perjalanan ke Rangkasbitung pada pagi keesokan harinya.


Dalam roman Max Havelaar, Multatuli menulis kisah perjalanan itu di Bab V. “Pagi-pagi jam sepuluh ada keramaian yang tidak lazim di jalan besar yang menghubungkan daerah Pandeglang dengan Lebak. ‘Jalan besar’ mungkin terlalu hebat untuk jalan kecil yang demi menghormati dan karena tidak ada yang lebih baik, disebut jalan; tapi jika kita, dengan kereta empat kuda berangkat dari Serang, ibu kota Bantam, dengan maksud untuk pergi ke Rangkasbetung, ibu kota baru daerah Lebak, maka bolehlah dipastikan bahwa kita akan sampai ke tempat itu sesudah beberapa waktu. Jadi, memang itu jalan. Saban sebentar kereta masuk ke dalam lumpur, yang di tanah rendah Bantam itu padat, liat dan kental…”

Lumpur memang tak lagi kami temukan dalam perjalanan dari Serang menuju ke Rangkasbitung. Jalanan aspal menghubungkan Serang ke Rangkasbitung melalui Pandeglang saat itu jelas lebih baik ketimbang yang dilintasi oleh Multatuli ketika datang untuk pertama kalinya ke Rangkasbitung. Perjalanan menempuh waktu nyaris seharian, sejak pagi hingga sore, mulai dari Jakarta sampai ke Rangkasbitung.

Jalanan berlumpur baru kami temukan ketika menempuh perjalanan dari Rangkasbitung ke Badur, desa di mana Saidjah dan Adinda berasal. Dua kilometer ke arah luar kota menuju Cileles, mobil yang kami tumpangi terjebak lumpur. Ban selip terbenam di dalam lumpur tanah liat kental, sehingga mobil tak beranjak jalan. Tanpa bantuan penduduk yang berkumpul di sepajang jalan berlumpur itu mungkin saya tak pernah sampai ke desa Badur.

Pengalaman itu mengingatkan saya kembali kepada apa yang ditulis Multatuli di dalam novelnya. “…Setiap kali terpaksa diminta bantuan dari penduduk di desa-desa dekat situ,–meskipun tidak terlalu dekat, sebab desa-desa itu tidak banyak di daerah itu–, tetapi apabila kita akhirnya berhasil mengumpulkan dua puluh petani dari sekitar situ, maka biasanya tidak lama kemudian kuda-kuda dan kereta sudah berada di tanah keras lagi… Demikian perjalanan diteruskan beberapa waktu tergoncang-goncang, sampai datang lagi saat yang menyedihkan, kereta masuk lagi sampai ke-asnya kedalam lumpur,” demikian tulis Multatuli. 


Bukan hanya lumpur yang jadi penghalang perjalanan kami saat itu, tapi juga jembatan kayu yang bobrok, tak layak lagi digunakan menghampar di hadapan seakan menyambut kami memasuki Cileles. Mungkin jembatan itu sudah puluhan tahun tak pernah diperbaiki. Balok kayu yang tersusun di atas jembatan tak lagi terikat rapi dan ajeg menyisakan celah longgar, membuat ban mobil truk angkutan kelapa yang berada di depan mobil saya terperosok ke dalamnya.

Untuk beberapa jam lamanya perjalanan tertunda. Kami turun dari mobil dan ikut membantu menurunkan semua kelapa dari bak mobil tersebut untuk membuat beban mobil ringan dan bisa melaju lagi. Kami pun melanjutkan perjalanan dan tiba di Cileles menjelang magrib. Seorang lurah berbaik hati memberi tumpangan menginap pada sebuah pondok tanpa listrik. Pelita yang menerangi kegelapan malam itu hanya terpancar dari sebuah lentera dengan sumbu berlumur minyak kelapa.     

Mungkin cara yang sama untuk menerangi malam juga digunakan oleh penduduk pada abad di saat Multatuli masih tinggal di Lebak. Padahal saat itu sudah seabad Multatuli pergi meninggalkan daerah yang membuatnya senang ditugaskan kesana. Beberapa hal agaknya memang belum banyak berubah saat itu. Diam-diam saya mulai sedikit percaya kalau Multatuli tak sekadar menulis fiksi.

Perjalanan kami lanjutkan pada pagi hari, menuju ke desa Badur, tempat Saidjah dan Adinda berasal. Saya penasaran ingin menyaksikan langsung kondisi warga desa yang pernah digambarkan oleh Multatuli hidup dalam kemiskinan, tertindas dan penuh ketakutan. Mereka, kata Multatuli, tak bisa memanen padi yang ditanamnya sendiri dan memilih meninggalkan desa untuk mencari penghidupan yang lebih baik di kota. Ada yang mujur, namun lebih banyak yang berujung nahas: tewas di ujung senapan serdadu karena melancarkan pemberontakan melawan pemerintah kolonial.


Tiba di Badur menjelang siang. Matahari bersinar terang menyengat kulit, membuat keringat terus menerus mengucur membasahi kemeja. Padi terlihat mulai menguning, sementara ilalang yang mengering bergoyang-goyang diterpa angin. Desa Badur terlihat sepi. Tak banyak penduduk di luar rumah. Sekelompok anak kecil bermain bersama seekor kerbau yang sedang digembala. Dua anak kecil di antaranya terlihat sedang menungganginya. Pada sudut lain desa, dua anak perempuan bercengkerama. Salah satunya tampak merapikan rambut gadis kecil yang ada di hadapannya.

Apa yang diceritakan Multatuli sulit untuk saya bantah. Kondisi desa terlihat jauh dari kata sejahtera. Sebagian warga Badur masih memilih untuk meninggalkan desa, seperti seabad sebelumnya, merantau ke kota lain mengadu nasib. Kami sempat memfilmkan situasi itu: mendokumentasikan anak-anak kecil yang bermain dengan seekor kerbau, situasi desa dan semua yang kami temui di Badur. Setelah berkeliling desa, dengan buku Max Havelaar di tangan, kami kembali ke Rangkasbitung melalui rute yang berbeda. Menghindari jalan berlumpur dan jembatan rusak yang kami lalui sehari sebelumnya.

Di Rangkasbitung, kami menginap pada sebuah hotel yang sederhana, berada di sebelah bioskop dan berseberangan dengan terminal. Kami punya kesempatan untuk melacak jejak Multatuli lebih leluasa sepulangnya dari Badur. Tempat pertama yang kami tuju adalah sebuah rumah yang pernah dihuni oleh Multatuli ketika dia bertugas jadi asisten residen. Rumah itu terletak di belakang rumah sakit yang kala saya mengunjunginya pada 1987 masih berfungsi sebagai kantor pemerintahan.


Ketika saya tiba di sana, sebagian rumah telah berganti rupa menjadi bangunan yang lebih modern. Rupanya rumah asli telah hancur dan mungkin dipugar. Namun sisa-sisanya masih dapat bisa dilihat, terutama lantai ubin kuno motif persegi lima berwarna hitam dan putih. Rupanya bekas rumah asisten residen tersebut sedang diperbaiki, menambahkan bangunan lain yang baru di tempat yang sama. Pembangunan agaknya tak mengindahkan aspek pelestarian atau mungkin tak banyak yang tahu kalau rumah tersebut bangunan sejarah yang pernah ditinggali oleh penulis yang karyanya sempat menggemparkan negeri kolonial.

Dari kejauhan saya lihat tukang bangunan membuang begitu saja ubin kuno yang berasal dari bangunan rumah. Saya memutuskan untuk memungut dua ubin dari tempat sampah: satu berwarna hitam dan satu lagi berwarna abu-abu keputihan. Dua ubin itu saya simpan dan kemudian hari saya bawa pulang ke Belanda.


Pengalaman kunjungan ke Lebak seratus tahun setelah kematian Multatuli itu sangat membekas dalam benak saya. Ketika sedang mendokumentasikan situasi kota Rangkasbitung di tahun 1987 itu, seorang aparat militer mendekati kami. Menegur untuk tidak merekam film sembarangan. Kami digelandang ke kantor Dinas Sosial Politik yang berada tak jauh dari alun-alun. Diminta untuk menjawab pertanyaan dari pejabat kantor dan mengikuti seluruh proses administratif, termasuk menunggu keluarnya surat izin selama tiga jam lebih. Setelah memenuhi permintaan untuk membayar 30 ribu rupiah, kami bisa keluar tenang dengan surat izin di tangan.

Di Lebak, saat itu, saya melihat kondisi telah berubah namun sisa-sisa bayangan masa lalu yang kelam masih tertinggal di sana. Bayangan itu kemudian saya temukan kembali saat saya pergi ke Lebak 32 tahun kemudian setelah kunjungan pertama saya pada 1987. Di tahun 2019 saya pergi mengunjungi Museum Multatuli yang setahun sebelumnya sudah diresmikan.


Sebuah kebetulan jika salah satu dari dua ubin yang sempat saya selamatkan dari tong sampah pada 1987 ternyata bisa menjadi koleksi tetap museum. Ubin tersebut menjadi salah satu benda yang diserahkan oleh Multatuli Huis, Amsterdam kepada Bupati Lebak Iti Octavia dalam kunjungannya ke Belanda April 2016. Ubin hitam, simbol kelam kekejaman kolonial tetap menjadi koleksi Multatuli Huis, Amsterdam, sementara yang abu-abu keputihan, simbol perdamaian atas masa lalu yang suram, diserahkan kepada bupati Lebak.

Pada 2019, saya dan beberapa kawan memutuskan untuk membuat sebuah film dokumenter menggunakan dokumentasi yang pernah saya bikin dari tahun 1987. Lagi-lagi saya kembali mengunjungi desa Badur. Berbekal rekaman film buatan 32 tahun lalu, saya mencari anak-anak kecil yang pernah saya rekam. Saya merasa beruntung karena masih bisa menemukan dua orang anak, Rasti dan Jumar, yang kini telah dewasa dan menikah. Saya penasaran apa yang terjadi pada hidup mereka selama 32 tahun terakhir.

Rasti, gadis kecil yang terlihat sedang merapikan rambut adiknya pada dokumentasi film saya di tahun 1987, kini berusia 37 tahun, sudah menikah dan dikaruniai seorang anak. Apa yang terjadi padanya 30 tahun terakhir sejak dia difilmkan? Rasti hanya sekolah sampai Madrasah Ibtidaiyah (sekolah Islam setara Sekolah Dasar). Dalam usia 12 tahun dia harus bekerja jadi pembantu rumah tangga pada sebuah keluarga di Jakarta demi menghidupi ibunya yang telah menjanda dan seorang adiknya.


Sementara itu, Jumar, anak angon kerbau yang juga sempat terdokumentasikan oleh saya, nasibnya tak jauh berbeda dari Rasti. Jumar hanya mengenyam pendidikan Sekolah Dasar Islam. Melanjutkan pendidikannya ke pesantren namun tak pernah menyelesaikannya karena memutuskan untuk menikah pada usia remaja. Setelah empat kali menikah, Jumar kini membuka usaha bengkel las sendiri di desa Badur.

Setelah melihat data statistik tentang indeks rata-rata lama sekolah di Kabupaten Lebak tahun 2018, saya bisa paham mengapa Rasti dan Jumar tidak bisa mengenyam pendidikan yang lebih tinggi. Data itu memperlihatkan kenyataan kepada saya bahwa rata-rata kesempatan anak untuk sekolah hanya mencapai 6,7 tahun. Artinya mereka hanya mengeyam pendidikan sampai kelas enam sekolah dasar dan sempat mencicipi tujuh bulan di bangku sekolah menengah tanpa pernah bisa meneruskan lagi pendidikannya. 

Buat saya, Rasti dan Jumar seperti gambaran Saidjah dan Adinda di masa kini. Mereka terpaksa bertarung untuk nasib yang lebih baik di tengah himpitan kondisi yang serba tak menentu. Dua abad lebih setelah roman Max Havelaar terbit ternyata jauh lebih banyak melibatkan para intelektual untuk berdebat di seputar soal apakah karya Multatuli itu fiksi atau fakta? Namun, mereka mungkin tak pernah berkesempatan untuk melihat langsung bagaimana nasib rakyat Lebak sesungguhnya yang sampai hari ini tak banyak beranjak dari kenyataan getir untuk hidup dalam ironi “tak bisa memanen padi yang ditanamnya sendiri”.

(Opini ini telah tayang di historia)

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